Category Archives: wardrobe

Twill

My favorite shorts last summer were too big this summer.  At first I thought I’d just set them aside but every time I came across them I felt a bit sad at the loss.  In the end, it didn’t take long to alter them – a bit of stitch-ripping during a train trip and setting in the waistband a second time reminded me how much I love sewing with cotton twill.

Waistbands and Flies

Pants are my jam right now.  I’m feeling much less intimidated by all that funny stuff around the zippers.  So much that I’ve ventured to experiment a little: change the pockets from patch to welt, adjust the placement of the fly facing, try a variety of pant closures.


The cords are drafted from a RTW pair of jeans (which I used for these shorts last summer) and the material was salvaged from my mom’s sewing closet – 2 yards spandex free!  

The navy pair are in fact shorts.  My second try at this Pauline Alice pattern with a few minor size adjustments and a couple pocket swaps.  The material was a score at a thrift store.  Some heavier cotton twill that was barely a yard.

42 pieces

United at last.   

 
Many times i was afraid they were going to stay as pieces, on my sewing room floor.

And now it’s fall and except for the hood, the coat is ready just in time to usher in the cooler weather. 

 
Once again, it was a Waffle pattern.  The outer material is a silk cotton twill which i ordered from China.  It’s hard to shop for material when i can’t touch it or get a sense of its weight.  So i researched lots on suitable coat fabrics.  I didn’t consider silk at first but i love it, its softness, the drape, how breathable  it is. 

 
The lining is Habotai silk accented with some fantastic beetle wool-silk blend (also from China).

  

Gosh, i even look as if i can hardly believe it’s done.  
 

Backward

  
This shirt ended up backward…or rather it started out that way. 

 I wanted a simple woven tank.  The fabric was a gift from a neighbour who is downsizing.  It was 1/2 yard from a curtain that was shortened, à la The Sound of Music.

I envisioned a single button and loop closure for the back.  But it just wasn’t working.  Before giving up, i turned it around.  Removed the button and the loop.   

 So much better.

Next time i’d try it in voile or something with drape.  I’d make the straps narrower and curve the hemline. 

 And keep that neckline just the same.

Coat in June

I am not in tune with the seasons.  But i am so pleased with my new jacket.  

Designed by a Japanese pattern maker living in Amsterdam, i originally found her work when i came across another of her patterns (also for a jacket, also in the works).  I saw this one and fell in love and decided to make it first.  I love the bomber style.  I love it in wool. 

  But it’s way too hot for June.

Though i found lining for the sleeves in my stash, i had to buy more for the rest of it.  The teal ribbing is from Nature’s Fabric (it was a toss up between that and olive).  The fabric for the shell was in my stash of vintage blankets but not heavy enough (and far too lovely) to convert into a wool mattress pad.  I had some serious work to do cutting out the pattern (and making sure all the pieces were correctly orientated) around all the moth holes.  The picture below shows the holes marked with painter’s tape. 

 The pattern itself was very straight forward; the lining pattern was a little less intuitive but mainly in terms of the order of the steps. 

I hyped myself up for the zipper work but the pockets were no big deal and this was the first separating zipper i’ve put in without having to redo once or twice.

 The fit is fabulous right off the bat.  The only modifications i made were to shorten the back collar facing and the collar ribbing. The body and sleeve length are impeccable.  Living in Amsterdam, she must know my type.

Now i have to wait three months to properly wear it.